Twist Veal Blanquette


By Emma
Certified Culinary Professional
Ingredients
- 1 kg (2.2 lb) veal cubes (shoulder or neck), trimmed
- 1 medium onion, peeled and studded with 3 cloves
- 2 sprigs fresh sage
- 1 small fennel bulb,**roughly chopped**
- 1 carrot, cut into chunks
- 2 garlic cloves, smashed
- 2 liters (8 cups) chicken or vegetable broth
- 1 bag 284 g pearl onions, peeled
- 200 g (7 oz) wild chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
- 70 g (5 tbsp) unsalted butter
- 40 g (1/4 cup) all-purpose flour
- 150 ml (2/3 cup) heavy cream 35%
- 1 egg yolk
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
About the ingredients
Method
- Start by dropping the veal in cold water, bring to a rapid boil and blanch exactly 4-5 minutes — foam rising, scum gathering on surface. Drain and rinse under cold water to stop cooking. Dry well with paper towels. Why? Removes impurities leaving cleaner broth and more delicate flavor.
- Tie sage sprigs into a loose bundle. Instead of classic bouquet, I swap celery out for fennel — adds a sweet, slightly licorice note that brightens the base. Pierce the onion with the cloves — look for earthy aroma once softened.
- In a clean large pot, return the veal. Add studded onion, sage bundle, fennel, carrot chunks, smashed garlic, and broth. Bring to a gentle simmer — no rolling boil here, just gentle bubbles around edges. Partially cover with lid tilted to control evaporation. Cook for about 1 hour 15 minutes. Listen for subtle simmering, meat tender but firm to touch with a fork.
- While stew simmers, heat a skillet on medium-high. Melt 2 tbsp of butter, sauté pearl onions and chanterelles until golden spots appear and edges start to crisp. Don’t crowd pan; they need to sizzle, not steam. Reserve and set aside.
- When veal feels tender but still holds shape, strain broth through sieve — collect exactly 1 liter. Discard solids (or compost). You want clean, aromatic liquid. Return pot to stove.
- Melt remaining butter (about 5 tbsp) over medium flame. Sprinkle in flour all at once, whisk constantly stirring vigorously for 1-1.5 minutes until raw flour smell cooks off but roux remains pale blond — no browning. Gradually pour in strained broth, whisking to avoid lumps. Bring to boil, whisk nonstop until thickened and glossy. Texture should coat back of a spoon, not gluey but substantial.
- Add veal back in with pearl onions and mushrooms. Simmer gently 5-7 minutes to marry flavors and soften onions further. Watch for bubbles breaking surface. Sauce will cling to meat, velvety.
- In a small bowl, beat yolk with cream smooth. Temper the mixture by drizzling some hot sauce into it while stirring briskly — prevents curdling. Off heat, stir cream mix slowly into stew. Adjust consistency with splash of water if too thick. Do not boil after adding yolk combo — risk of curdling. Season well with salt and pepper, taste often.
- Serve with steamed rice or buttered egg noodles. Garnish with fresh sage leaves if you like. Leftovers better next day; flavors deepen. If sauce firms up on standing, reheat gently adding a ladle of warm broth.
- Common substitutions: veal neck or shoulder chops instead of inside round; chanterelles from wild or market can swap for cremini if out of season; fennel can be replaced with a small stalk of celery but fans of classic miss this subtle perfume; heavy cream can be swapped for crème fraîche but adjust seasoning. If no egg yolk available, use just cream but sauce won’t be as glossy or rich.
Cooking tips
Chef's notes
- 💡 Blanch veal cubes first in rapid boil for 4-5 minutes. Foam and scum gather on top; scoop quickly to avoid bitter note. Rinse well under cold water. Dry thoroughly to avoid diluting broth later. Key step to clean base. Skipping causes cloudy, off-flavors. Repeat if too foamy.
- 💡 Tie sage loosely with kitchen string or butcher's twine. Makes removal easy. Fennel replaces celery here; chop rough to release aroma but not too fine or it disappears. Studding onion with cloves adds that earthy punch; pierce deep enough so cloves stay but not poke fingers. Smell the aroma after softening - subtle but key.
- 💡 Simmer veal with veggies gently. No rolling boil; look for little bubbles breaking surface. Tilting lid helps control evaporation and keep broth clear. 1 hour 15 minutes usually hits tender but firm texture. Test with fork for slight resistance. Overcook turns mushy, undercooked tastes tough. Visual simmer cues better than timer.
- 💡 Sauté pearl onions and chanterelles in batches. Don't crowd pan or steam instead of caramelize. Butter melts, onions start to brown edges, mushrooms release earthy scent and slightly crisp. Hear sizzle not boil. Toss gently, watch for golden spots developing but no burning. Sets texture and flavor contrast in final stew.
- 💡 Make roux off heat or medium flame only. Melt butter and add flour all at once, whisk constantly 1-1.5 minutes until raw flour smell fades but no color change. Pour hot strained broth gradually to avoid lumps. Whisk nonstop and bring to boil to thicken. Sauce should coat spoon back with thin trace left, not gluey or darkened roux. Timing critical here.
- 💡 Add veal back with sautéed veggies once sauce thickens. Simmer gently 5-7 minutes. Bubbles should barely break surface, sauces clings and glistens, no runny spots. Taste for seasoning here. Avoid overcooking mushrooms; they soften but keep bite, onions melt a bit more. Visual and aroma cues guide final texture adjustments.
- 💡 Temper egg yolk with cream off heat. Slowly drizzle some hot sauce into yolk while stirring briskly to prevent curdling. Do not add directly into hot pot or risk lumps. Stir in cream mixture slowly and remove from heat immediately after. If sauce too thick, add small splash water and stir gently. Never boil sauce after egg addition.
- 💡 For substitutions: if no wild chanterelles, use cremini mushrooms but flavor less earthy. Celery can replace fennel if fennel unavailable; loses slight licorice note but still works. Veal neck or shoulder chops can swap inside round but adjust simmer times; neck cooks slower, shoulder slightly faster. If no egg yolk, cream alone okay but sauce gloss drops.
- 💡 Pearl onions need blanching in boiling water 1 minute then peel skins easily; frozen pearl onions faster prep but drain excess moisture or they steam in pan, losing caramelization. Use butter for sauté, not oil, for flavor. Sauté in small batches to get edges crisp. Don’t rush this step; texture difference huge in final dish.
- 💡 Leftovers keep well refrigerated; flavors deepen overnight. Sauce thickens on standing; reheat gently adding ladle warm broth to loosen. Microwave heating can cause curdling if overheated. Freeze into portions to save time later. Thaw in fridge then gently reheat on stove preserving texture.
Common questions
Why blanch veal before cooking?
Removes scum and impurities. Keeps broth clearer, flavor cleaner. Skip, broth may taste off or cloudy. Helps in texture too. Blanch 4-5 mins max. Rinse cold immediately after.
What to do if sauce curdles after adding egg yolk?
Likely heat too high. Temper yolk carefully with hot liquid first off stove. Add yolk mixture slowly, never boil after adding. If separate, strain if possible or fix with whisk and slow heat back. Cream only option if fear.
Can I use other mushrooms instead of chanterelles?
Yes, cremini or button mushrooms work. Loss of wild earthiness but still tasty. Clean and slice similarly. Avoid water-logged mushrooms, dry sauté needed to avoid sogginess. Wild mushrooms add signature aroma though.
How to store leftovers properly?
Refrigerate in airtight container. Use within 2-3 days. Freeze in portions for faster future meals. Thaw overnight in fridge before gentle reheating. Add broth or cream if sauce too thick after storage. Avoid rapid reheating to reduce curdling risk.