Veal Sweetbread Five-Spice
By Emma
Certified Culinary Professional
•
Recipe tested & approved
Poach veal sweetbreads briefly. Chill quickly. Trim membranes, veins, fat. Dust in flour. Sear in duck fat in batches, browning well. Use shallot, garlic, star anise instead of five-spice powder; caramelize with honey. Deglaze with white wine vinegar and muscat wine. Reduce till syrupy. Coat meat. Serve with celery root purée and sautéed spinach.
Prep:
25 min
Cook:
30 min
Total:
55 min
Servings:
4 servings
#veal
#sweetbreads
#French-Asian
#duck fat
#star anise
#caramel sauce
#celery root
#sautéed spinach
Sweetbreads—delicate but finicky. Been burned, overcooked, rubberized more times than I care to admit. The trick? Short poach then ice shock. Peeling membranes is a pain but non-negotiable—renders texture creamy not grainy. Flour dusting adds crispness; avoid flour piles or soggy coating. Duck fat beats butter; more depth, better sizzle—will share why later. Star anise instead of five-spice powder. Five-spice can overwhelm, star anise gives hint of sweet licorice without bitterness. Honey adds sticky charm, caramel notes. Wine and vinegar balance sauce—get reduction right; too thin, watery; too thick, cloying. That sticky sheen is your green light. Pan scraping—key for bold flavors. Serve with celery root purée and spinach. Earthy meets rich. My go-to when craving depth but craving freshness too.
Ingredients
- 750 g veal sweetbreads
- 70 g unbleached all-purpose flour
- 85 g duck fat or unsalted butter
- 1 French shallot finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves minced
- 15 ml star anise powder
- 15 ml honey
- 5 ml white wine vinegar
- 250 ml muscat wine
About the ingredients
Sweetbreads need quick poaching in simmery salted water; water shouldn’t roar boil or texture degrades. Ice bath stops cooking instantly—never skip, makes cleanup easier too. Removing membranes demands patience, wet fingers help; if tough, soak longer or blanch a tad more. Duck fat optional but ups savory factor; butter okay but watch browning, burns faster. Substituted star anise powder for five-spice—simpler, less overpowering; five-spice kits contain cinnamon, cloves, fennel - can fight with honey sweetness. Flour dusting critical for crust; shake excess flour off—avoid clumps. Muscat wine sweet but not sugary; dry white or Riesling combo works; balance vinegar splash—white wine or apple cider also fine. Honey adds caramel layer; maple syrup for more rustic woody flavor, won’t caramelize quite same. Fresh garlic and shallots—don’t overcook, want sweet bite not bitterness.
Method
- Drop veal sweetbreads into simmering salted water. Poach 4-6 minutes only; texture matters. Plunge into ice water immediately. Drain thoroughly.
- Peel away tough skins, veins, and visible fat. Use fingers, gentle pressure. Cut into thin slices or bite-size bits; uniform for even cooking.
- Spread flour on plate. Coat sweetbreads coating lightly but thoroughly. Shake off excess, don’t cake up flour.
- Heat half duck fat in skillet over medium. Sear half sweetbreads without crowding—shake pan, hear that sizzle? Brown until crust forms, 2-3 min per side. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to warm plate. Repeat with remaining fat and sweetbreads.
- In same skillet, lower heat to medium-low. Add shallot, garlic, star anise powder. Stir, let soften and release aroma, about 2 min. Drizzle honey; wait for gentle bubbling, sugar caramelizes slowly, flush edges darken slightly. Stir constantly.
- Splash vinegar, scrape up browned bits—flavor minefield here. Pour muscat wine; raise heat; reduce until sauce thickens to syrup consistency—about 8-10 min. Shoulder sauce to coat every piece well.
- Return sweetbreads to pan; toss gently, warm through 2 min. Taste—adjust salt, pepper, add splash more vinegar if sharpness lost.
- Plate immediately; serve with celery root purée and sautéed spinach or wilted greens to cut richness.
Cooking tips
Poaching sweetbreads short time keeps interior tender but cooked through. Ice bath halts process, crucial for clean peeling. Trimming membranes removes grainy texture, big difference. Flour coating captures heat, forms golden crust; avoid sogginess by double checking flour even coating. Sear in duck fat; listen, that crisp sizzle signals Maillard reaction—the brown crust is flavor jackpot. Don’t overcrowd pan, temp drops, less crust, more steam. Lower heat for aromatics; soften shallots and garlic but no burning, bring out sweetness. Honey caramelizes slowly; protect heat or risk bitterness. Deglazing with vinegar lifts fond; adding muscat follows up with a sweet acidic punch. Reduce sauce patiently; hitting syrup stage means the sauce clings without overpowering. Toss sweetbreads gently, avoid breaking crust. Taste, tweak seasoning; acidity balance can drift. Serve hot; cool sauce loses charm. Pair with creamy celery root purée—mellow base, sautéed spinach adds fresh bite. Reheating leftovers? Gentle in pan only, crust fades fast in microwave or oven.
Chef's notes
- 💡 Poaching sweetbreads short time. 4-6 minutes. Texture changes fast. Too long means rubbery, too short not cooked. Ice bath right after; stops heat dead. Peel membranes wet fingers; stubborn bits need soak or extra blanch. No shortcuts here. Patience.
- 💡 Flour dusting must be light. Shake off excess flour carefully. Too thick clumps mean soggy crust. Coat every piece but don't cake up. Sear only half batch at a time; crowd pan kills heat, more steam, less crust. Duck fat behavior - sizzle signals Maillard, good browning. Butter burns faster. Adjust heat as you go.
- 💡 Aromatics low heat. Shallot, garlic, star anise powder. Stir slowly fragrance releases, don’t rush. Drizzle honey off heat at first, then gentle bubbling. Watch edges darken slightly, caramelization happens slow. Burnt honey bitter. Stir constantly or scorch risk rises fast here.
- 💡 Deglaze with vinegar splash; scrapes up fond stuck bits - flavor jackpot if you lift properly. Muscat wine next; raise heat, reduce patiently. Syrupy stage key. Sauce clings but stays glossy. Too thin is watery, too thick sticky. Keep eye, texture is proof. Toss gently sweetbreads to keep crust intact.
- 💡 Milk replacements? Duck fat optional but ups savoriness—better sizzle. Butter if used watch brown fast. Star anise powder for five-spice; simpler, cleaner. Honey adds gentle caramel, maple syrup gives woody rustic vibe but won't brown same. Vinegar white wine, apple cider fine alternatives. Muscat sweetness unique but dry white Riesling also good substitute.
Common questions
How long to poach sweetbreads?
4-6 minutes max. Texture flips fast if overdone. Ice bath stops cooking instantly. No skipping this step means cleaner peeling and better texture. Longer poach ruins softness.
Can I use five-spice powder instead?
You can but expect stronger bitter notes. Star anise powder simpler flavor. Five-spice has cinnamon, cloves, fennel that may clash with honey sweetness. Adjust honey or omit if using five-spice.
Why is coating flour important?
Flour creates crust on sear, locks moisture in. If coated too thick or clumped, crust soggy, breaks apart. Shake off loose flour; light even layer ideal. Improves texture, mouthfeel. Sear temperature matters too.
How to store leftovers?
Refrigerate airtight container only. Reheat gentle pan heat best; microwave or oven dries crust fast. Sauce thickens cold, loosen with splash water or wine on reheat. Eat within 2-3 days for best texture.
